Snowboard bindings for the freeride, boardercross, and carving community from Catek.
 
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<  Alpine & Race  ~  Check em' Every Day!
Galen
PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:24 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 6

I learned this lesson today. Went out yesterday for my first ride on the Olympics. Loved em! Today, towards the end of the day while riding the lift. I noticed something funny(not haha funny). My front foot was pointed straight forward on the board! I'm guessing the cant/lift screws came loose after 2 days of riding. I set them up right, set your cant and lift first, mount it to the disk, crank on the king pin then gave the cant screws another 1.5 turns. Is that enough? I dont want to crank them until I cant turn them more, right? Anyway, do you guys use any thing like locktite or fingernail polish to keep the from loosening? Probably not an issue since I'll be checking them all the time now, which of course is what I should have been doing in athe first place. Anyways, just thought I share that. Rolling Eyes
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Jim Callen
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 2:40 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 9
Location: Aspen, CO

It usually takes one or two days of riding to get the screw to where they don't come loose. When I or my students get new bindings I have them check the bindings at least every two runs. After the first few days the problem goes away as the holes in the disk have become deep enough to provide enough resistance to keep the kingpin from comiong loose.
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Udo
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 9:17 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2005
Posts: 25
Location: Moscow Russia

Typical first-timers' issues.
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Chris Houghton
PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2005 4:53 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 5
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

One suggestion that will make things a lot safer - tighten the kingpin first, when the four screws are still backed way off. THEN set the four setscrews and give them another 3/4 turn after they touch the plate. If the kingpin is not bottomed out, it's coarser thread will always come loose before the others. This is actually the way Jeff details it in the Catek instructions. Hope that helps Laughing
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Galen
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 1:06 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 6

Chris Houghton wrote:
One suggestion that will make things a lot safer - tighten the kingpin first, when the four screws are still backed way off. THEN set the four setscrews and give them another 3/4 turn after they touch the plate. If the kingpin is not bottomed out, it's coarser thread will always come loose before the others. This is actually the way Jeff details it in the Catek instructions. Hope that helps Laughing


Thanks Chris,
Now I'm confused(not a diffucult task). On the tech info page (http://www.catek.com/tiltcalculator.htmit) It says to set your cant/lift and then re-asseble the binding to the disc. In the instructions that come with the bindngs, #3 says "set the desired tilt and attach the Binding Plate to the disc"
Then " Use the 6mm hex key to tighten the king pin to the disc. rotate binding to the desired angle.Use 4mm key to adjust the binding plate to the desired tilt by turning the screws so that they each just barely contact the disc divots. Then turn each tilt screw an equal number of times clockwise so that the binding plate aand discare securely fastened together" So.. it makes it sound like you adjust the cant/lift before and after you assemble the plate to the disc. Is that right? another thing I noticed was that a couple of my cant/tilt screws didnt have the much of the locktite type stuff on them that they come with, and could feasily be turned in and out with the fingers. I suspect that is the main reason the loosened up. Any thoughts?
Thanks,Galen
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Gecko
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 2:35 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 3
Location: Westerly R.I.

it is posible to adjust cant/lift with the bindings installed you just need to keep track of the math behind the Binding setup...I did this my last day adding 3/4* of cant in the rear.
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Udo
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 3:03 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2005
Posts: 25
Location: Moscow Russia

Quote:
I suspect that is the main reason the loosened up.


Not all binding versions had this sticky stuff.
The only reason is not tightening enough...the way it is explicitly described in the directions.
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Pre-School Rider
PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 6:42 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jan 2005
Posts: 19
Location: Arlington,VT

Galen, you read right. You set your cants,being sure that all four set-screws sit Level,regardless of tilt you have in the plate. You then set your foot angles, then Crank on the kingpin. Twisted Evil This is 'snug', but not 'TIGHT'. To get things tensioned and securely tight, you give each set screw an equal amount of extra twist; I usually use a half-turn to start, then follow up with another 1/4 turn. Keep the resistence torque you into the 4mm wrench consistent if possible. After this is done, you now have the four set-screws actually increasing the tension against the kingpin with more force than if you added a 'convincer' lever to the kingpin wrench. Surprised It's very effective, and does keep your bindings ON the board. Cool

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Udo
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 12:51 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2005
Posts: 25
Location: Moscow Russia

Quote:
You set... being sure that ...You then set ...then Crank...you give ...use a half-turn...then follow up ...Keep the resistance...


This is too complex. Simply too many operations. Rolling Eyes What if people never learned to read before getting Cateks?

Maybe it'd be easier to get Burtons or Bombers? One kind wins snowboard World Cups and the other kind is such a good looking binding...
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Pre-School Rider
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 6:45 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jan 2005
Posts: 19
Location: Arlington,VT

If the Catek is too complex for someone to figure out, then they need the ultimate 'dumbed down' step-in binding. Any one of the SKI bindings would do, though to keep it simpler, probably Tyrollia would be a good bet. Be sure Not to use these on boards, but on SKIS. Be sure those SKIS don't have any extra bell's and whistles, other than Neon Graphics; No sidecut, no Twintips, no Fatties, and no style. Then you can be assurred things are not TOO COMPLICATED as you descend the runs next to the Rope Tow. Good Luck, Simplify your world as best you can.... Rolling Eyes

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Udo
PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 8:32 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2005
Posts: 25
Location: Moscow Russia

If simpler were better...

"I'd drive a Corolla." "If I drove a Corolla I'd slit my wrists. What's next? Dating Kelly Osbourne? I'll have to go and get some Dockers and Old Navy shirts to round it all out."

John Gilmour ( www.slalomskateboarder.com )
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Chris Houghton
PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:06 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 23 Jan 2005
Posts: 5
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

I still follow the instructions that came with the old style World Cup bindings. Tighten the kingpin with the four setscrews backed way off so they are not touching. Then use the setscrews to set your desired angle, lift and cant. Never had them come loose using this method, and it makes sense given the difference in thread pitch between the kingpin and the setscrews.
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JM
PostPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2005 8:24 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jan 2005
Posts: 6

I'll take a shot at an explanation.

This has worked for well over half a decade:

Set your cant/lift before you mount the plate to the disk. Use Jeff's Calculator if you want to have a reference of where your at.

Tighten Kingpin snug but don't over do it. If you just hold then allen wrench with thumb and forefinger your unlikely to over tighten.

Then make one full turn on each tilt screw to increase force against the Kingpin. Keep each turn the same so that you do not change your cant/lift.

I'd hate to see anyone switch to skiing just because they couldn't figure out their Catek's.
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